In contrast to all of the prior wines in the range this is the first to display any appreciable amount of reduction and even here it doesn't mask the earth and game wisps. There is superb concentration, intensity and muscularity to the big-bodied and overtly powerful flavors that culminate in a robust, tannic, austere and massively long finale. This isn't going to win any awards for refinement but if bold burgundy is in your wheelhouse, this would make for a dramatic choice provided that you have the patience to wait.
(90% vendange entier): Dark red-ruby. Explosive yet airy aromas of black raspberry, espresso and game. Wonderfully silky and fine-grained on the palate, with powerful minerality giving the wine terrific inner-mouth energy. Complex soil tones complement the dark berry and bitter chocolate flavors on the refined, very long finish. (ST)
The 2014 Mazoyères Chambertin Grand Cru, which comes from same-aged vines just 60 meters away from the Charmes-Chambertin, has a very intense, well defined bouquet: blackberry and raspberry coulis, fine mineralité coming through. I find the new oak less imposing here. The 90% whole bunch fruit works well on the palate; the wine is medium-bodied with firm, slightly abrasive tannins that should soften during the élevage and requisite bottle age. Good density here with plenty of freshness on the finish, this is a wine for long-term keeping. (NM)
90% whole bunch. 100% new oak. On the Morey side 50 m from Dugat-Py’s Charmes-Chambertin vines. Sinewy, mineral rather than fruity nose. High toned. Earthy. Savoury, almost sandy textured. No obvious sweetness. Needs lots of time. Very serious. Long. (18/20 points)
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