An addition to the range, the 2014 Pinot Noir Baker Ranch is dense wine with a big mid-palate and plenty of up-front raciness. The flavors are deep, pungent and intense, to the point that the 67% whole clusters are pretty much buried by the fruit. The poor set here resulted in small berries that resulted in high skin-to-juice ratios during fermentation. This generous, mid-weight Pinot is likely to offer its best drinking sooner rather than later. There is plenty to like. Anthony Filiberti crafts Pinots and Syrahs endowed with real personality at Anthill Farms. That said, my sense is that Filiberti would rather be in the vineyard than in the cellar, something that was reinforced by the numerous unsolicited comments I heard from other producers raving about the quality of his farming. As always, the Anthill Pinots see a good bit of whole clusters (50% for the Peters and Tina Marie and 30-40% for everything else) and are aged in mostly neutral oak, with no racking until bottling. Filiberti describes 2014 as a vintage that was nearly three weeks ahead of schedule. Of course, 2015 followed, and it was even earlier! (AG)
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