The 2014 Gevrey-Chambertin Champs Chenys Vieilles Vignes is from this vintage, a combination of the two parcels that were farmed by Philippe Roty and the domaine, Josephy Roty. There is a slight meatiness on the nose here, though that ebbs away and reveals quite broody red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite a structured Gevrey with a mineral-driven finish. There is still some oak to be absorbed, though give it 4-6 years and it should be assimilated. Returning to Domaine Joseph Roty two weeks after the untimely passing of Philippe Roty at 46 after a three year battle against cancer, as you would expect, one is filled with emotion far beyond that of appraising a new vintage. However, regretfully I have been in this same situation two or three times before and found that after obligatory condolences, there is always a desire to get back to some kind of normality and restore that sense of life going on. The blood stops running but the sap will always keep rising. And in a sense, Philippe is a strong spirit, a guiding influence at the domaine. Chatting with Pierre-Jean Roty, he told me how his brother had never relinquished until the very end, constantly asking him about the 2015 vintage. Photos and videos of the vines were bought in to his hospital and up until his last visits, he was still inspecting the vines and doing his best to continue as if he didn't have a matter of days left on this Earth. Perhaps one small consolation is that he died k
from vines averaging 70 years of age; this wine includes the old-vines fruit that previously went into Philippe Roty's Champs Chenys Cuvée des Vieilles Vignes bottling): Good dark red. Black cherry and licorice aromas are lifted by violet and mint accents. Concentrated, juicy and nicely delineated, offering lovely lift to its flavors of kirsch, ripe strawberry and saline minerality. This fresh, energetic, complete village wine should evolve slowly and gracefully.
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