The 2014 Marsannay Clos de Jeu (apparently named after the family) has a very stony nose, less fruité than the Boivin, lifted red fruit developing with time. The palate is very well defined with crisp acidity, and very elegant in the mouth with a keen line of acidity; it is fresh and tensile all the way to the finish. This is a superb Marsannay from Roty. Returning to Domaine Joseph Roty two weeks after the untimely passing of Philippe Roty at 46 after a three year battle against cancer, as you would expect, one is filled with emotion far beyond that of appraising a new vintage. However, regretfully I have been in this same situation two or three times before and found that after obligatory condolences, there is always a desire to get back to some kind of normality and restore that sense of life going on. The blood stops running but the sap will always keep rising. And in a sense, Philippe is a strong spirit, a guiding influence at the domaine. Chatting with Pierre-Jean Roty, he told me how his brother had never relinquished until the very end, constantly asking him about the 2015 vintage. Photos and videos of the vines were bought in to his hospital and up until his last visits, he was still inspecting the vines and doing his best to continue as if he didn't have a matter of days left on this Earth. Perhaps one small consolation is that he died knowing that the domaine had been blessed with the 2015 vintage.
Good bright red. Reticent perfume of red cherry, raspberry and spices, plus a hint of caramel oak (Roty used 30% to 40% new oak for his Marsannays in 2014 and this wine is showing its wood element today). Even sweeter than the Boivin, displaying more volume to its flavors of berries, spices and cocoa powder. Then turns much more taut and firm on the back end, closing saline and classically dry, in need of patience. A very serious Marsannay.
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