The 2014 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese ** (White Capsule) opens with a clear and initially pretty 'Burgundian' bouquet, with yeasty and spicy as well as some sweet oak and lemon chutney flavors. When I re-tasted the wine from the same bottle again a couple of days later, it had become a clear, bright, fresh and concentrated Riesling from the Zeltingen Sonnenuhr. Full-bodied, very elegant, delicate and round on the palate, this is a lovely, creamy and finesse-full textured, deliciously fresh and vital Riesling of great intensity, finesse and lightness. The persistent finish reveals lemon and stone fruit flavors, and a lot of stimulating salt and finesse! This is a fascinating wine that can compete with great white Burgundies (but will survive most of the fine grands crus), and certainly belongs to the finest Rieslings in the world. Bottled with 12% alcohol, but with an enormous complexity and length. 95+ (SR)
This virtually-dry “two-star” Auslese weighs in at 12 percent alcohol. It leads with smoky, fusel, alkaline, smoky and mossy scents such as I would usually associate with a more mature Riesling (and that also reflect some newish small barrels) but which are certainly intriguingly diverse. A similarly complex mineral-animal mélange accents fresh white peach and apple on a satisfyingly juicy, rich palate, leading to a gripping and unexpectedly bright finish to which pistachio and hickory nut lend piquancy. I’ll be happy if my assessment of this wine’s aging potential proves overly conservative, but for now, it’s sending me mixed messages. And given how impressive this beauty is, nobody is likely to feel cheated who enjoys it sooner rather than later. (DS)
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