Sourced from the terraces and "dissected like a TBA" (Molitor), the 2014 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (White Capsule) is extremely deep, intense and concentrated on the nose, and reveals smoky and slightly nutty flavors along with ripe peach, lemon and crushed stone notes. Is this Meursault? Full-bodied, very rich and intense, with power, finesse and purity, this is an extraordinary dry Riesling. It structured by its mineral depth and fine tannins, and reveals a great purity, finesse and elegance in the highly complex, endlessly salty finish. No more words to bother. Devotion. But most of all: patience! (SR)
There is no Einzellage in which Markus Molitor has more impressive holdings than in Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, and that site is often the source for his most impressive dry or virtually-dry Riesling – but not in the present collection, where Schlossberg upstages it. Scents and flavors of ripe white peach are accented with lemon peel, wood smoke and stone. Firm and full, the palate invigorates with peach kernel piquancy, peach fuzz tingles and lemony zest, finishing with gripping persistence, almost aggressively bright and incisively phenolic; an undertone of wet stone is prominent enough to convey a certain austerity. A faint hint of sweetness is not at all unwelcome. The winsome floral and nutty aspects typically associated with Zeltinger Sonnenuhr are not putting in an appearance – at least, not yet. If high acid and high extract are conducive to longevity (which I question) then my projection of ageability for this wine will prove woefully conservative! (DS)
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2015 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Kabinett Riesling Ruwer (Elsewhere $27)