The golden-yellow 2014 Riesling Zeltinger Schlossberg Auslese *** (White Capsule) displays a deep, clear, concentrated, aromatic and stony/smoky bouquet of crushed stones, lemons, ripe peaches and dried apricots. Full-bodied and juicy, with great purity, complexity and intensity, this is a silky textured, crystalline and finesse-full Riesling of great elegance and balance. It's so stimulatingly delicate and salty, so intense and aromatic that I can't resist to swallow it––not only the first day I tasted it, but even three days later when the wine was even finer. Don't expect a bright, clear and pure Riesling here if you don't open the bottle a couple of days before you drink it, because this seems to be a rather dry extract of Riesling (40 grams of sugar-fee extract,) but that's exactly what it is--very fine Riesling from a very special vintage. You should certainly love it in 15, 20 and even 30 years. You just have to survive that long. It would be a waste of talents to drink this fine Schlossberg Auslese too early. (SR)
This dry-tasting "three-star" Auslese reflects some of Molitor’s lowest yields from a harvest of already meager volume. Pungent scents of wood smoke, grapefruit peel and quarry dust set the tone for a zesty, piquant, expansive palate that reflects both high dry extract and 12.5 percent alcohol in its sense of mouth-filling mass. Abundant juiciness of fresh grapefruit and white peach linger into a bright, bittersweetly nutty finish of vibratory intensity. As this opens to the air, it keeps getting more expressively complex and gripping: one more piece of evidence that in 2014, Zeltinger Schlossberg was capable of upstaging Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. (DS)
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