The 2015 Nervo Ranch Heritage, from a site in Alexander Valley planted in 1936, is quite powerful and savory in style. Sweet tobacco, herbs, menthol, licorice and black pepper are some of the many notes that give the Nervo its distinctive personality. This is a remarkable set of wines from Morgan Peterson and Chris Cottrell at Bedrock. The 2015 Zinfandel and Zinfandel-based blends are outrageously beautiful. My impression is that the fruit is being picked a bit earlier than in the past, as the wines have more brightness and freshness than was once the norm, and yet they also have plenty of the depth that has been such a signature here since the beginning. Cottrell attributes the increased ability to pick earlier to a greater emphasis on dry farming. Whatever the reason or reasons, the 2015s are tremendous. That said, I am happy to see the experimental Syrah Weill a Way Vineyard Exposition project come to a close with the 2013 vintage. After tasting those wines next to the 2015s, all I can say is that the qualitative gap is, or was, massive. (AG)
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