The 2015 Chablis Les Grandes Terroirs is a blend of vines from lieux-dits Les Parges, Chapelot and Les Cartes (which I also tasted separately). It has a clean and mineral-driven bouquet, perhaps more akin to a 2014 than a 2015. The palate is clean and fresh with a hint of lychee (coming from Les Cartes), counterbalanced by crisp acidity from Chapelot and a fine, minerally finish that already displays fine tension and salinity. Worth looking out for this once released next year. There’s a new guy in town. That guy in Samuel Billaud and more accurately, he is returning to the town of Chablis after being embroiled in a family dispute with his uncle Bernard Billaud, when he sold the domaine to Faiveley (still under the Domaine Billaud-Simon name, incidentally). As a consequence, there was an interregnum whereby Samuel occupied a temporary facility outside Chablis in the village of La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne. Since I have been visiting Samuel, it was clear that he was itching to lay foundations more permanently and as luck would have it, he was able to move into the building previously occupied by Domaine Moreau-Naudet--located in the heart of the village, just down from Domaine Droin.
(a blend of three components: 75-year-old vines in Les Quarts, on white clay and calcaire soil in front of Vaillons; 25-year-old vines in Bas de Chapelot, harvested on September 2 and 3 because of hail; and vines in Les Pargues, which was slightly less affected by hail in 2015 but completely destroyed this spring; done entirely in stainless steel): Pale yellow. Very ripe peach and apricot aromas dominate the nose. Ripe and dense, showing good intensity and salty extract. Interestingly, this approximation of the final blend comes across as less exotic than one or two of its components, and more saline and smooth on the finish.
An overtly ripe but reasonably fresh array is composed by cool apple, pear, iodine and sea breeze scents. There is good energy and solid delineation to the delicious and very generous middle weight flavors that display evident salinity on the rich and nicely persistent finale that offers good if not truly special depth and length.
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