Once again relatively generous wood stops just short of pushing the otherwise elegant, pure and wonderfully classic iodine, oyster shell, petrol and quinine aromas to the background. There is terrific intensity to the gorgeously textured, intense and beautifully well-detailed flavors that possess focused power while delivering excellent depth and length on the explosive finale. While this is carrying a bit more wood than I personally prefer there is no doubt that this should age effortlessly.
Lovely balance between citrus acidity, drive, spice from the wood(14 months' maturation in foudres), great concentration and a long, mineral finish. Still very youithful, will be exceptional in 5 years. Drink 2018-2026. (AH)
(bottled in January): Pale, bright yellow. Fresh yellow peach, apricot, lemon and toast on the nose, accented by a subtle spearmint note and a whiff of oyster shell. Densely packed, intense, saline and penetrating; tightly wound yet somehow pliant, this wine offers considerable charm owing to its early balance and sweetness but is built for a graceful evolution. Superb, seamless wine with enlivening saline minerality carrying the finish and giving it terrific grip and lift.
This vineyard is regarded as the finest of the Grand Crus, certainly for its more serious character. This 2014 has great complexity, toast and spice mingling with the mineral and white-fruit flavors. It is obviously set for long-term aging with its wood still not fully integrated. Drink this impressive wine from 2020.
Bottled in February 2016, the 2014 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos has a refined bouquet that as I mentioned last year, you could easily mistake for a Chardonnay from the Côte de Beaune. It is clean and precise, just a touch of flint giving away its Chablis origin. The palate is very well balanced with squeezed lime and citrus fruit on the entry, hints of dried orange peel, fine balance with a touch of spice lending it an almost Les Preuses-like personality on the finish. Enjoy this Les Clos over the next 8-10 years.(NM)
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