The Moreau holdings in Valmur are older vines than their parcel in Vaudésir, and the wine is a small step up in quality in 2015. The bouquet has a nice touch of reserve to it out of the blocks, delivering scents of lemon, apple, chalky minerality, fruit blossoms, beeswax and just a touch of vanillin oak (this too is fifty percent barrel-fermented). On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and shows a fine girdle of acidity, with a rock solid core, fine focus and grip, excellent balance and a long, complex and very promising finish. This could do with a few years in the cellar to fully blossom. Fine juice.
The 2015 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur has another winning bouquet of white flowers, hints of white chocolate and roasted almond all very well defined, perhaps the mineralité not quite as present as the Vaudésir. The palate is very well balanced with crisp acidity, tightly wound and focused with green apple, Cornice pear and a dab of ginger on the focused finish. Unlike the Vaudésir this will require more ageing, 4-5 years if possible. Domaine Christian Moreau is one of those producers that had been on the upswing in recent years and a bit like Patrick Piuze, I always appreciate my visit here--not only because of the quality of the wines, but because Fabien Moreau always gives me a candid view of the vintage. (Unfortunately, his father Guy was away on this visit.) (NM)
(from a full 1 ha parcel). Relatively prominent wood fights somewhat with the otherwise pure nose of green fruit, pear liqueur, iodine and sea breeze aromas. There is excellent power to the rich, intense and focused big-bodied flavors that possess a lovely sense of energy on the textured and palate coating finish that is borderline rustic. Here the bitter lemon aspect that arises on the finish is more pronounced and it’s worth noting that this is sufficiently structured to require at least some patience.
Peach, lanolin, vanilla and sweet baking spice notes herald this elegant white, converging on the pinpoint, lemony finish. Excellent length. (BS)
Light-medium yellow. Nose dominated by musky stony minerality. Tightly wound and powerful but a bit hard-edged in the early going, offering classically dry citrus, menthol and white pepper flavors. This fruit appears to have been picked earlier than ideal owing to the hailstorm and its hint of bitterness will take time to knit. Finishes with a slightly phenolic dusty quality. More disjointed than the Vaudésir today but ultimately more minerally. 91+ points. (ST)
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