Honeysuckle, verbena and chamomile aromas stream out first, followed by a remarkably creamy core of yellow apple, white peach, heather honey and warm mirabelle plum notes. Hazelnut oil and brioche line the finish, adding considerable length. Despite all the lushness and depth, this manages to maintain a sense of tension and precision as well. Amazing wine. (JM)
White peach, grilled hazelnuts and plenty of yellow citrus fruits with dried meadow flowers. The palate has impressive glycerol-laden texture. Lemon and lime citrus ride on a smooth and expansive mid-palate. Peach and peach skin flavors and a sapid, taut finish. A real masterpiece. Best from 2020.
Tasted in components: #1, from Peleat: Vibrant and minerally, displaying superb clarity and lift. Tastes like a very serious Grand Cru white Burgundy, with vibrant citrus and orchard fruit character and a suave blend of power and finesse. #2, from Rocoules: More pit fruit and deeper and smokier in style, with emerging hints of sweet butter and iodine. #3, a blend of Rocoules and l'Ermite: Taut, focused and pure, offering densely packed orange and pear flavors and a sexy floral nuance. Rich yet nervy was well, displaying excellent closing thrust. The ultimate wine should be a great cellar candidate, possessing the richness of fruit to give some early appeal but the depth, structure and balance to age effortlessly. (JR)
Chave continues to make a full-throttle, concentrated and unctuous Hermitage Blanc, and refuses to buy into the ridiculous trend toward making Sauvignon Blanc-like whites from this tiny, magical terroir. God bless him for that and there are few whites I’d rather drink than a mature Hermitage Blanc from this genius winemaker. Jean-Louis called 2014 a good year for the whites, and his 2014 Hermitage Blanc had just been bottled a month prior to my tasting. It has terrific minerality as well as classic stone fruits, buttered citrus, honeysuckle and crushed rock, full-bodied richness and an elegant, fresh, pure style. It will have two decades of longevity. (JD)
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