Stephan commented that he did everything he could to maintain freshness in his 2015 whites, and he’s done a fabulous job with both Condrieu releases. The 2015 Condrieu La Combe de Malleval comes from two separate parcels and offers a textbook array of apricot, flower oil, crushed rocks and sappy flowers, with building depth and richness on the palate. It’s a gorgeous Condrieu that will be even better this time next year and drink well for 4-5 years at a minimum. Over the last decade or so, Stephane Ogier has raised the bar in just about every way possible for his estate in Côte Rôtie: purchasing new vineyards, replanting existing sites, working hard to develop an AOC for Seyssuel and building a completely new cellar—all the while continuing to produce a bevy of brilliant wines. Today, the estate is unquestionably in the top handful of domaines in the Rhône Valley. (JD)
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