Fresh apple, grapefruit and lemon deliver invigoration on the nose, not to mention on a buoyant, tangy palate that manages somehow to feature both tart, crisp edges and subtle creaminess. This finishes with the remarkable balance of which its genre is so famously capable, its sweetness solely supportive, even though on paper it looks excessive. And the sense of transparency to alkaline, saline and crystalline stony impingements perfectly complements the wine’s alcoholic levity. (DS)
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