Once again there is a deft touch of wood apparent on the restrained, cool and pretty array of red berry, earth and softly spice-inflected nose. The wonderfully refined, layered and sleek middle weight flavors possess a polished mouth feel while delivering outstanding length on the moderately austere and dusty finale. Like the Taillepieds this is quite firm and will need at least 6 to 8 years of cellaring before it will be approachable. Patience required.
The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Champans has a more pointed and angular nose at the moment when compared with the Taillepieds. It is probably the most primal of the Volnay, black cherry and cassis fruit suffused with tangible mineralité, but it needs to be knitted together during the remainder of its élevage. The palate is very well balanced, the wood component again needing time to enmesh, but there is good substance here -- even if I prefer the elegance of the Caillerets on the finish (at the moment). I walked up to Marquis d’Angerville from a quick lunch in Volnay’s own bistro, Guillaume d’Angerville there to receive me in his historic property. Last time I saw him was actually in a photograph when Burgundy was awarded its status as a UNESCO World Heritage site, Guillaume sitting just behind Aubert de Villaine. It is appropriate that there were two representatives from the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune. Of course, this does not preclude Burgundy from the merciless caprice of Mother Nature and Volnay had been hit by hail, including Guillaume’s vineyards. I asked him what he had been doing that day… (NM)
Full red. Aromas of dark cherry, smoky minerals and sexy soil tones. Very sweet and broad on entry, then suave and nicely delineated in the mid-palate, displaying complex saline soil tones and cherry and dark berry fruit flavors. This savory Volnay finishes with building toothcoating tannins and terrific chocolatey length. Needs time, but this wine strikes me as more harmonious than the excellent 2013 version was at the same stage. (ST)
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