A throwback style and proud of it, with warm chestnut and bay leaf notes taking the lead, followed quickly by worn leather and smoldering tobacco accents. The core of dark currant, warmed cherry and mulled blackberry lies in reserve for now, while the finish lets singed iron and brick dust details hold sway. Just wait for everything to pull together in the cellar. Best from 2020 through 2032. (JM)
Pegau's Cuvée Laurence is aged in wood for longer than the Cuvée Resérvée, but is otherwise nearly identical. The 2012 version is full-bodied, dense and richly textured, redolent of liniment, horse tack and garrigue, yet backed by ample cherry and plum fruit. Drink now–2025. (JC)
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