The 2015 les Preuses from Domaine Fèvre is also a great wine in the making and it will be fun to compare its evolution over the coming decades to that of the Valmur. The wine is gorgeously complex on both the nose and palate out of the blocks, soaring from the glass in a blend of apple, par, beeswax, chalky minerality, a touch of tangerine and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, young and very mineral in profile, with a superb core, laser-like focus and a very, very long and racy finish. Classic juice. 2020-2050.
Les Preuses delivers energy and concentration, lemon, apple and white flowers, with a fresh, resonant finish.
Pale, bright yellow. More feminine on the nose than the Valmur, offering aromas of citrus fruits, pear and white flowers plus a soupçon of oak spice. Very silky, seamless and refined but also shows terrific intensity and floral lift. Harmonious acidity leavens the density of this wine, giving it an almost weightless impression in the mouth. Perfectly integrated and balanced from the start. The impressively long, rising finish features piquant notes of citrus peel, minerals and flowers. I'd give this fine-grained beauty a good five years in the cellar before pulling the cork. (ST)
(from two parcels of vines that total 2.55 ha, or 22% of the entire appellation). Once again there is a subtle but not invisible application of wood setting off the more elegant aromas of green fruit, almond, citrus, floral, spice and quinine. The super-intense, delineated and vibrant middle weight plus flavors possess both good richness but also the hallmark refinement of a fine Preuses, all wrapped in a more complex and sneaky long finish. Lovely.
The 2015 Chablis Grand Cru les Preuses comes from 2.5 hectares of vine, west and southwest facing. The nose needs some encouragement from the glass, but ultimately reveals attractive green apple, granite and orange blossom aromas all neatly defined. The palate is well balanced with quite a rounded and voluptuous opening, the tropical tones nicely integrated with the citrus fruit; there is just a little more spice and terroir expression required on the finish, but there is good persistence here. My rendezvous with Didier Seguier, head winemaker at William Fevre, was at their tasting room in Chablis ville, opposite the Bistro de Grand Cru. As usual, we tasted through their comprehensive portfolio, first with the 2015s, of which all but the entry-level wines are still in tank on their lees and due for bottling next year. Then we broached the 2014s in bottle. (NM)
Ripe pear nose with a light toastiness. Broad and supple, it is juicier than the other grand crus, and perhaps a bit softer too. There is underlying salinity and minerality, but it is very subdued at present. Rich, nutty and complex, it perhaps lacks a little energy and drive. Drinking Window 2018 - 2028
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