The 2015 Valmur from Didier Séguier is utterly classic in profile and one of the most reserved and racy wines in the cellar this year. The top flight bouquet delivers a fine array of pear, beeswax, just a touch of tangerine, chalky minerality, white flowers and a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, crisp and impeccably balanced, with a fine sense of reserve, a rock solid core, lovely soil signature and superb backend cut and grip on the very long and minerally finish. This will need some time to blossom, but will be one of the wines of the vintage. 2020-2050.
At the grand cru level, the Valmur shows well, a mix of power and finesse, with apple and lemon flavors, intensity and fine length.
The 2015 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur comes from vines located on a vein of marn that extends down into Les Grenoueilles with a high kimmeridgian content. It has a clean and fresh bouquet with fresh dew-speckled green apples and slate aromas that are nicely focused, and show more chutzpah than the Vaudésir at the moment. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, a touch of spice on the entry with fresh pear, nettle and ginger; it gains more tension towards the finish, but never fully lets go. Perhaps with 4-5 years in bottle, this will switch into fifth gear? I'm keeping the faith. (NM)
(vinified entirely in oak): Very pale yellow-green. Pungent scents of lime, flint and white pepper, plus hints of spicy oak, baked bread and butter that suggest a rounder style of wine than the Vaudésir. Indeed, this Valmur is large-scaled, broad, silky and full, with just enough acidity to maintain its shape. Still hiding more than it's showing, though, and in need of aging in spite of its early sucrosité and lack of rough edges. Finishes long, with menthol and spice notes. 93+ points. (ST)
(from a parcel of vines that is close to Vaudésir and extends all the way from Grenouilles to the tree line at the top of the hill). A ripe and attractively fresh nose combines notes of pear, white peach, sea shell, iodine and wood nuances. There is exceptional richness to the almost viscous and powerful broad-shouldered flavors that coat the palate with dry extract that also serves to buffer the relatively firm acid spine on the austere and serious finale that, somewhat curiously, simultaneously exhibits a touch of sweetness. Once again, this should age well over the mid-term but also be accessible young.
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