Peach and tangerine unite to create an utterly seductive nose: luscious juicy flesh is defined by aromatic spice and zestiness. These opposites play off each other and create something that is alive and vigorous, joyful and precious. There is concentration and poise, structure and texture, but none of this concerns the hedonistic forces at play. They just want to express their careless exuberance. There is something defiant about this dry concentrated wine. Perhaps it is a welcome and encouraging counterweight to so much sadness in the world. (AK)
This cool and youthful dry Riesling has lovely candied citrus and herbal notes with excellent depth and a long, complex finish that's full of energy. Delicious now, but should easily keep for a decade. Organic grapes. Demeter certified.
From the top of the hill and grown on sand and quartz, the 2015 Fronholz Riesling opens with a fascinatingly clear, precise, fresh and stony/mineral bouquet with lemon and floral aromas. Picked on September 22, this is a full-bodied, rich, intense and elegant but cool Riesling with juicy tropical fruit flavor, a silky texture and fine tannins in the long, elegant, sensual and very aromatic finish. This is a remarkably good Riesling on the Premier Cru level. André Ostertag and his team have produced an impressive range of 2015s. Although I don't know even a considerable fraction of all the 51 vintages in the history of the family domaine, founded by André's father in 1966, the 50th—the 2015 vintage—should be one of the very, very best... The wines are not just perfectly ripe, rich and highly concentrated, but they are also very precise, fresh and expressive in their terroir character. The aging potential of almost all the wines should be terrific: They are full-bodied, intense, firmly structured yet pure and very long. A vintage like 2015 will not be repeated that often, and readers should take the chance to grab as many bottles as they can. (SR)
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