The 2016 Riesling from Eden Valley opens with a lovely lime juice and orange blossoms laced nose, revealing an undercurrent of yuzu, honeysuckle and coriander seeds. Light-bodied, dry and elegantly fruited in the mouth, it provides tons of citrus layers and a lively backbone, finishing with great persistence. (LPB)
This is the venture of ex-Torbreck Dave Powell and his son Callum, and the third vintage of this wine from a single site in the high Flaxman’s Valley, 460 metres above sea level. He is buying grapes from many of the same growers as in Torbreck days. And in fact he worked with this vineyard 30 years ago when he was at Rockford. Vines now 95 years old, low yields. Sandy loam over quartzite. Whole-bunch pressed, fermented at 12-15 ºC and bottled. Inoculated ferment. Fresh and limey, intense and rich in the mouth, especially impressive at this low alcohol level. Weight and depth but also a great freshness and a sort of oily minerality in its weight. Not overly fruity (sample is room temperature, as preferred by David Harvey of Raeburn Fine Wines, Powell's importer) but has power and precision and length. Powell commented that sometimes a wine can be too powerful, and therefore unbalanced, because of low yields. If they buy the vineyard, he may consider irrigation. Firm texture and just avoiding phenolics. A good match with oysters or sushi, adds Powell. 500 cases produced. This is a serious Riesling. (JH)
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2014 Leeuwin Estate "Art Series" Chardonnay Margaret River Western Australia (Elsewhere $85)