Bernstein's 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain is in your face instantly in its expression of toast, spice, resin, caramel, and vanilla of oak, and at the same time – with a somewhat discordant result – of fresh citrus, tart fruit skin, and sweet corn. Bitter notes – not so sharply focused as those of fruit pit – gain prominence as the wine progresses toward the finish, and while long as well as broad, it lacks the polish exhibited by its Charmes sibling. Make no mistake: there is strong raw material here, expressive in a rather gaudy and as yet unrefined way. And there is the potential for imposing richness harmonizing with sufficient brightness and vivacity. But time will have to tell whether such a felicitous marriage comes about. (DS)
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