The star of this extraordinary line-up is Domaine William Fevre’s show-stopping 2004 Chablis Les Clos (domaine). Its creamed stone aromatics are followed by a bold, muscular, powerful character. Medium to full-bodied and ample, it explodes on the palate, unleashing waves of iodine-laced minerals, white fruits, and liquefied rocks. This masculine counterpart to the Les Preuses is suave, seamless, and immensely concentrated. Projected maturity: 2008-2017. Though it is difficult to fathom, Fevre’s 2005 Chablis Les Clos, tasted at an unbelievably young age, was even bigger, denser, and more powerful! Bravo!
Stylistically, this closely resembles the Valmur with its ultra elegant and pure aromas featuring white flowers, oyster shell and subtle spice notes that perfectly complement the round, powerful, rich and full-bodied flavors that coating the mouth and culminate in a saliva-inducing, incredibly intense finish that reminded me more than a little of a great Corton-Charlemagne. This just oozes minerality and the texture is minerally to the point of this resembling a block of stone. A great Les Clos.
Pale straw-yellow. Aromas of iodine, crushed stone, flint and oatmeal. Wonderfully sweet and creamy, with its pliant mouthfeel firmed by vibrant minerality. Finishes taut and racy, with terrific lift. Very young but not at all hard. This is already suave.
Refined and elegant, this exudes floral, herb, lemon and mineral aromas and flavors. Harmonious and long, yet tightens up on the finish. Best from 2009 through 2020. 215 cases imported.
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