The haunting, esterous nose suggests rowan and white peach accompanied by kirsch and blueberry distillates. Firmer in feel than the corresponding Heiligenstein but bursting with midpalate flavor, this finishes with downright reverberative intensity; eye-watering brightness such as one least expects from 2015, not to mention mouthwatering salinity and consummate sheer refreshment. It seems to leave behind a load of crystalline stone and an alkaline residue you’ll have to scrape from your teeth.(DS)
The nose just gives a gentle hint of ripe apricot. The palate, on the other hand, speaks freely of zesty citrus: ripe lemon and fresh Seville orange, full of tart zestiness and refreshing zing. This is slender and linear, taut but chock-full of fruit. There is drive and energy and total refreshment.
The 40-year-old vines of the Gaisberg had to fight to get their roots into the gneiss and amphibolite that lay under the thin brown soils, a task Johannes Hirsch encourages through biodynamic farming. Those vines weathered the warmth of the 2015 vintage to produce a wine that’s broad and strong. There’s a rooty, umami aspect to the flavors, gingery in its spice and parsnip-like in sweetness, with an acidity that beams out from a tight center. Give it a few more years in the cellar before breaking it out for roast pork.
The 2015 Kamptal Riesling Gaisberg 1ÖTW offers a clear, fresh and concentrated bouquet of super ripe white fleshed stone fruits. Full-bodied, fresh and piquant, with refreshing acidity, a certain tannin grip and first maturity that reveals a slightly drying but also juicy finish, this is excellent dry Riesling to be served with food. It is dense and well structured but won't age for decades. Johannes Hirsch continues to produce very clear, vital and digestible wines with bright fruit and a food-friendly structure. The Rieslings and Veltliners—all farmed biodynamic—are finessed and possess a great definition and clarity. With the 2015 vintage, Hirsch has introduced a new Grüner Veltliner from the Kammerner Gaisberg. It contains a bit of Riesling (8%) that is also planted on the upper terraces of the 1ÖTW site. In 2015 both varieties were harvested and processed separately before the assemblage whereas they were fermented together in 2016. The upper Gaisberg terraces are very poor, and the vines root partly in mica schist, which gives the Gaisberg Grüner Veltliner a very distinctive character. Hirsch's series of 2016s is one of the finest in Lower Austria.(SR)
An intense white, with concentrated flavors of lemon curd, green apple and nectarine. Silky in texture, with a bright acidic backbone imparting vibrancy. Drink now through 2023.
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