An elegant, pure and softly spicy nose offers up slightly riper notes of honeysuckle, nectarine and white peach aromas. There is excellent intensity to the notably rich and refined medium-bodied flavors that also possess an abundance of dry extract that coats the palate on the impressively long finish. This is extremely impressive with more power than usual and like the Referts it should be capable of rewarding longer-term storage but be relatively civilized young if preferred.
Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2012 tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Bienvenue Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru from Jean-Jacques Carillon feels more primal and straightforward on the nose compared to Girardin and Jean-Claude Bachelet, however in similar fashion to the latter, it improves in the glass and develops attractive cooking apple, fresh pear and kiwi fruit notes, perhaps even a touch of toffee. The palate is balanced on the entry with well-judged acidity, but it feels a little disjointed towards the spicy finish before recovering and coalescing, regaining its harmony. This is one of those wines that would have benefited from a longer decanting – a discrete white Burgundy for those with patience. Its nuances might have been overlooked in this comprehensive blind tasting, but it will evolve into something special. 94+ (NM)
(13.6% alcohol, the only one of these 2012s that was not chaptalized): Captivating perfume of mandarin orange and sexy oak spices. Concentrated and tightly wound, showing lovely concentration and energy to the flavors of peach, soft citrus fruits and saline minerality. Finishes tactile and long, with good energy (4.5 grams per liter acidity). This is a bit like the 2013 in its balance and verve. There's just a single barrel of this juice. (ST)
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