Deep, bright ruby-red. Extremely subtle, complex nose combines black raspberry, smoked meat, orange peel, dark chocolate, earth and game. Large-scaled and powerful on entry; then silky and voluminous. Really expands on the palate and builds on the aftertaste, with the fruit outlasting the ripe tannins. I would have scored this wine even higher except for a hint of disjointed acidity. Also tasted: 1998 Chardonnay Croft Vineyard Lenswood. 92+ (ST)
Deep garnet-brick in color, the 1995 Hill of Grace has a slightly leathered, dried fruit nose that is a little tired though highlighted by notes of sandalwood, tree bark and earth, hints of leather and meat. There's a touch of barnyard on the palate and it is a bit past its peak, fading slightly with crisp acid and firm, chewy tannins through a long finish. (LPB)
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2013 Leeuwin Estate "Art Series" Chardonnay Margaret River Western Australia (Elsewhere $80+)