Harvested at a whopping 14% potential natural alcohol, Lafon's mind-blowing 1996 Montrachet is brilliant. Sublime mineral, stone, smoke, and toasted nut aromatics are followed by a wondrous, concentrated, extracted, and sublimely classy personality. Oily layers of liquid minerals, red berries, anise, hazelnuts, and white flowers can be found in this massive, full-bodied, mouth-coating, and palate-saturating wine. Incredibly, just when the taster believes the palate has realized the brunt of this explosive gem's assault on the senses, it expands to even greater heights. The wine has a compellingly long finish. This is a tour de force! (PR)
Deeper-pitched, less forthcoming nose currently dominated by resiny oak and sheer ripeness. Huge, minerally and sweet on entry, then dense and remarkably intense; whereas the Perrieres is bright and consistent, this is simply a powerhouse today and totally unevolved. But extremely long and strong. (ST)
Amazing fruit and power. Ripe and thick, with lots of lemon and toasted oak--a Chardonnay given the full Burgundian treatment. There's a chewy, chalky, buttery, intensely tropical side to this full-bodied wine. Needs years to show it all. Best from 2010 through 2020. (PM)
The initial hints of secondary development are now beginning to manifest themselves yet this remains youthful and still largely primary on the fantastically complex nose that offers up an explosive mix of white flower aromas, spice hints and ripe citrus notes that continue on to the vibrant, muscular, dense and exceptionally powerful flavors that possess flat out incredible detail, all wrapped in a racy, elegant and gorgeously pure finish. This is a jaw-dropping combination of superb punch yet this remains a wine of nuance and it seems as though the length just won't quit. While this is certainly an amazing, even dramatic wine already, I would leave it be for another 4 to 8 years, depending on how cool you keep your cellar. A great Lafon Montrachet. Note that the most recent bottle played right on the edge of evident oxidation and for my taste was on the verge of cracking.
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