Subtlety is at the heart of the 2013 Chablis Les Clos. All the classic Clos notes are present in an understated, totally classy Chablis long on personality and pure class. White orchard fruit, mint and a gentle hint of spice inform the lovely finish. Here the oak is better balanced than in the Preuses because the single cask where the Clos ages is now four years old.(AG)
Pale, bright yellow. Aromas of peach, pepper, spicy oak, white truffle and porcini suggest a very concentated wine. Densely packed, suave and fine-grained, conveying superb fruit intensity to the peach and nectarine flavors, with surprisingly vibrant acidity energizing the middle palate. Finishes tactile and dry, with a saline iodiney quality.
The wood treatment does not completely overwhelm the ripe white flower, pear and oyster shell aromas though it's not subtle. There is slightly better precision to the more mineral-driven and powerful big-bodied flavors that possess excellent length. This distinctly saline effort has enough wood that it likely won't appeal to purists though the underlying material is such that it may very well successfully integrate the oak in time.
Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Brouilland. The 2013 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos has a surprisingly exotic bouquet considering the vineyard with papaya and mango aromas developing in the glass. One can speculate that maybe there was a bit of botrytis that slightly compromised typicité. The palate is rich and honeyed on the entry, smooth with a fine seam of acidity, not a complex Les Clos but one that will clearly offer commercial appeal. It does not quite deliver the sophistication that it suggested just after bottling, nevertheless, it will surely repay another 2-3 years in bottle. Tasted May 2016.(NM)
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