Discreet wood doesn't interfere with the clear expression of the liqueur-like nose that features notes of plum, violet, earth and a hint of tea. The notably sleeker and finer-textured medium-bodied flavors also display more evident minerality on the powerful yet elegant finish that delivers sneaky good length. This is sufficiently structured to require at least 6 to 8 years of cellar time.
The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny offers plenty of brambly red and black fruit on the nose, just a touch of violet in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin on the entry, demonstrating more substance than the 2014 Fonteny and with more cohesion on the slightly savory finish. Good potential here. (NM)
Bright, dark red. Wild blackberry, licorice and violet on the nose, plus a touch of game. Juicy, pliant and balanced from the outset, if not hugely concentrated. Conveys a strong impression of soil and more saline minerality than easy sweetness. The wine's rather serious tannins currently shorten the fruit but there's nothing hard about this premier cru. (ST)
Bright, transparent crimson. Sweet start and then bitter finish. Rather exciting with lots of drive. Hint of candied walnuts. 17/20 points. (JR)
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