The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has a slightly backward nose at first that demanded some encouragement from the glass, eventually offering attractive scents of blackberry, briary and cold stone. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannin. I appreciate the freshness here, and it gathers pace towards the finish with crunchy black fruit that seem to revel in their terroir. This is a well-crafted Gevrey-Chambertin from J-L Trapet. The 2015s that I tasted at Domaine J-L Trapet were without question, the best I had ever tasted at this address. Maybe it was one of those occasions whereby I fought to keep my excitement disguised behind my poker face. I tasted down in the cellars, switched on my laptop as usual. "There is no wifi connection down here thank God," Jean-Louis Trapet forewarned as I automatically connected onto the TWA software system. "The picking date was very important in 2015. It rained on the Sunday 12 September. We started picking on the Monday 6 September and picked everything before the rain. We had a big team of pickers and managed to harvest right at optimal maturity. I used a minimum of 50% whole bunch for all the cuvées, around 80-90% for the grand crus. We will rack in February for bottling in April." As one of the most ardent biodynamic winemakers, Jean-Louis' wines tend to wear their heart of their sleeves, reflecting their terroir and growing season for good, and it has to be said, occasionally not so good. However, his 2015s are brilliant wines
Bright medium red. Pure but reticent aromas of red berries, smoke, game and earth. At once firmer and sweeter in the mouth than the Marsannay, with the intense red berry flavors displaying lively acidity. Here the tannins come across as a bit less sharp than those of the Marsannay owing to the wine's greater mid-palate sweetness. A firm, persistent, honest village wine in the making.(ST)
The 2015 Gevrey AC chez Trapet is another wine that is the spitting image of a young 1990 red Burgundy and it is lovely in this style. The bouquet is deep, pure and sappy, offering up a blend of red and black cherries, grilled meats, black minerality, woodsmoke and a topnote of bitter chocolate. On the palate the wine is plush, full-bodied and sappy at the core, with lovely soil signature, suave tannins and excellent focus and grip on the very long and classy finish. Village wines do not get a lot better than this bottle! 2016-2035+.
(from Les Cercueils, Jouise, Clos Prieur Bas and Les Crais). A more complex and more floral-inflected nose features notes of fresh and relatively elegant aromas of both red and dark currant, earth and forest floor. I very much like the mouthfeel of the lightly mineral-inflected medium weight flavors that are at once seductive yet precise, all wrapped in an equally complex, persistent, youthfully austere and well-balanced finish. Worth considering. 2023+
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