I had never tasted Bruno Giacosa’s 1964 Barolo Riserva Speciale. It was a very beautiful, delicate Barolo with pretty notes of mint, anise, licorice and beef bouillon. It showed greater structure and power than the Bartolo Mascarello that followed. Unfortunately this wine was never better than when it was first opened. With time it lost some of its freshness and sheer sexiness. Bartolo Mascarello’s 1964 Barolo (1.9 liter magnum) was the exact opposite. Initially quite funky and rustic, it needed several hours of air to open up. When it did, it was a fantastic wine that captured the essence of this warm vintage in its ripe fruit and generous, enveloping personality. The 1964 is not one of the most complex or profound Mascarello Barolos, but this bottle provided plenty of enjoyment. With the large format, there was more than enough for everyone to taste the wine over the course of the night.
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