The 2015 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Bel Air, which comes from vines on the same limestone soils as Clos de Ruchottes, has an entrancing bouquet with very pure and airy red cherry, strawberry and mineral scents. There is wonderful transparency here—you can "feel" the vineyard. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, ample freshness and tension with hints of orange ring and quince jus filtering through the red berry fruit. The structure reminds me of a Morey-Saint-Denis and there is plenty of energy lingering on the tart red cherry finish, with a long spicy aftertaste. This is excellent.(NM)
(these high-altitude vines above Clos de Bèze suffer less in hot years and always yield fruit with healthy acidity according to Romain Taupenot): Bright medium red. Captivating perfumed lift to the aromas of black cherry, spices, dried rose, violet and menthol. Pungent red berry flavors are given noteworthy penetration by zippy acidity. Finishes with firm but very well-integrated tannins and lovely lingering perfume. This vibrant, tactile wine, from a healthy yield of 42 hectoliters per hectare, tickles the salivary glands. These vines are situated at essentially the same altitude as the grand crus of Gevrey but are closer to the forest on a steeper slope and receive less sunlight, noted Taupenot.(ST)
An ultra-fresh and relatively high-toned nose offers up notes of pomegranate, red currant and plenty of earth and game nuances. There is terrific underlying tension and minerality to the dusty, precise and sleekly muscular flavors that culminate in a notably firm but not especially austere or backward finale. This should reward 10 to 12 years of cellaring yet be approachable after 6 to 8.
The 2015 Taupenot-Merme Gevrey “Bel Air” is a bit more reserved in personality than the lovely La Riotte, but it too shares excellent depth at the core and a suave structural chassis and will be a superb wine with sufficient bottle age. The bouquet delivers a fine blend of red and black cherries, a complex base of dark minerality, mustard seed, a touch of gamebird, cedar and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and impressively tangy, with a sappy core, fine focus and grip and a long, ripely tannic and refined finish. 2022-2060+.
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