A gutsy style, with a frame of brick dust around a core of steeped cherry, plum and blackberry fruit. The back end pulls in dried sage, savory and tobacco notes. The finish lingers over a singed chestnut hint. Rock-solid and unabashedly old-school. Best from 2020 through 2030. (JM)
A wild, rustic edge to this assertive and punchy fruit-driven Châteauneuf-du-Pape. A smooth black cherry and blood plum-flavored palate. Appealing tangy freshness to close. The rusticity denotes drink now or as a much older wine.
As to the 2014 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée, which is already in bottle, it’s a medium-bodied, lively and fresh example of this cuvée that offers classic Pégaü notes of cured meats, tapenade, spiced meats and blackcurrant fruits. Clean, complex, with bright acidity and solid concentration, it needs a decant if drinking anytime soon, but should keep for at least a decade.(JD)
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