The 2015 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint Jacques has a very perfumed bouquet with layers of morello cherry, quince, raspberry preserve, crushed rock and elements of darker fruit that become more pronounced with aeration—blackberry and a touch of blueberry. The palate is very structured with good backbone. However, following the effervescent Ruchottes-Chamerting, this Clos Saint-Jacques is decidedly more backward and surly at the moment, although there is tremendous grip on the very saline finish. This will need more ageing in bottle than other crus, but the substance and energy is all here to create a formidable Clos Saint-Jacques. (NM)
(from a 2.2 ha parcel raised in 70% new wood). There is just enough wood present to mention but not so much as to materially detract from the attractively fresh, cool, pretty and airy red berry, earth, humus, anise and rose petal-scented aromas. The refined yet quite powerful middle weight are almost painfully intense and there is so much minerality the mouthfeel is akin to rolling small stones around in your mouth particularly so on the sappy, palate coating and hugely long finish. This too is seriously impressive and very classy. 2032+
Red fruits and cherries on the nose, but it's very closed at present. Very rich and weighty, with formidable fruit of concentration and density. Tight and less approachable than most of the Rousseau wines, but this tension suggests a fine evolution and ageing potential. At present the tannins seems to obstruct the fruit, but that will change. Very long finish. (SB)
Pungent high-pitched perfume of cranberry, pomegranate, red licorice, rose petal and spicy oak. Tight-grained and refined, with a distinctly penetrating quality as well as an almost exotic quality to its red berry, spice and floral flavors. Much more imploded and hard to taste today than the Clos des Ruchottes, and showing less easy sweetness. But the savory, very pure finishing flavors build inexorably on the aftertaste, staining the palate without leaving any impression of weight. (ST)
The 2015 Clos St. Jacques from Domaine Rousseau was in a bit of an adolescent phase at the time of my visit, as this wine received eighty percent new oak in this vintage and it was still in the process of fully integrating its new wood component into the body of the wine. The nose wafts from the glass in a blend of red and black cherries, red plums, gamebird, complex soil tones, spices, raw cocoa and cedary new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, tangy and quite sappy at the core, with fine soil signature, ripe tannins and a long, chewy finish. Today, this wine is working at its oak and not in the same pretty state as so many of these other 2015s, but underneath the wood is a great wine in the making and once everything falls into place, it will be superb. Today, it is hard to say that it will be better than the great 2015 Clos des Ruchottes, but traditionally, it usually ends up just a touch higher up the scale and this may well be the case with the 2015 in the fullness of time. As I tasted this wine, I kept imagining how it might have been showing if it too had been raised in only thirty percent new wood! 2025-2075.
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