(these vines just turned 70 years old but still produce a healthy crop, according to Droin, who has not yet started to replant them; 13% alcohol): Light yellow, but without the green tinge of some of the other 2016s at this address. Distinctly ripe, buttery aromas of soft citrus and tropical fruits show a slightly exotic character. Thick, creamy-sweet and highly concentrated but given shape by ripe, harmonious acidity. A bit aggressive and edgy on the phenolic finish but also boasts explosive length. At this point in our tasting, Droin noted that he lightly chaptalized both the Valmur and the Clos in 2016, but not this wine from deeper soil.(ST)
Once again firm reduction and sulfur render the details of the nose a mystery. The rich, concentrated and full-bodied flavors are slightly finer than those of the Valmur if again not quite as powerful though this is still a very serious effort that delivers even better depth and length on the balanced finale where a touch of wood arises.
The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles was certainly the most minimalist of Droin’s grand crus—austere and reserved at this stage. The palate is clean and precise with notes of orange sorbet and tangerine. It is quite feminine and elegant, approachable in style but maybe without the ambition of the Valmur or Vaudésir. We will see...(NM)
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