(this and the rest of Girardin's grand crus were bottled in late April, fined and lightly filtered): Pale, bright yellow. Crushed stone, lime blossom and saline minerality on the nose, complicated by ineffable high notes of cinnamon and nutmeg. At once dense and weightless, with powerful acidity giving the wine outstanding cut but completely shutting down the middle palate today. This powerfully stony expression of the cru stains the palate on the long, rising, perfumed aftertaste. Don't even think about pouring this until about 2020. 95+ (ST)
The 2010 Corton-Charlemagne wraps around the palate with rich, expressive layers of fruit. This is an especially radiant style of Corton-Charlemagne endowed with considerable textural depth and polish. Attractive hints of butter, smoke, slate, mint and white flowers add complexity on the finish. This is a rare Corton-Charlemagne that will drink well with minimum cellaring, although there is more than enough vibrancy to make me think it will also hold up quite well. The Corton is a fairly large cuvee for the house, and is made from a blend of parcels in Pernand-Vergelesses, Aloxe-Corton and Ladoix-Serrigny. 93+ (AG)
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