The 2015 Marsannay Clos du Roi, which contains around half whole bunch fruit, offers a soupçon of the sea here, a tang of saltiness that complements the dark cherry and blackcurrant aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a strict and linear opening. There is a gentle grip in the mouth, then eventually it fans out with a dash of spice on the finish. This is one of Fournier's best offerings this vintage and comes highly recommended. Domaine Jean Founier is one of my favorite growers up in Marsannay, a source of well-made, lively and characterful wines that always please. Laurent is a talented winemaker. No, he does not boast a raft of Premier or Grand Crus to his name, but that makes his achievements with more modest holdings all the more impressive. There are times when I fear that Laurent risks over-complicating things. His is quite an unorthodox portfolio with plenty of special bottlings using unorthodox grape varieties and as much as I enjoy them, they can occasionally risk consumers. His Bourgogne Chapitre Vieilles Vignes is one of the best generic red Burgundy wines out there, so much so that I put my money where my mouth is and popped open a bottle for Christmas lunch one year. "Is that all you're going to open?" asked my wife. It just took one sip and she changed her mind. "That will do fine." Enough said.(NM)
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