Representing a small barrel-selection (around half new oak) from the material that would otherwise have become Mas del Rey, the 2006 Cotes du Roussillon Clos del Rey displays vividly bright black fruits; a dense, sappy, yet lively palate impression, and a salty, smoky, stony, and stunningly intense finish that manages to be both gripping and infectiously juicy. This needs time in the air to express itself, and as it opens up, the profundity of its fruit and illusive minerality; a bitter sweet, iris-like floral dimension; and above all the wine’s lift and elegance become dramatically evident. There is not an ounce of fat or a touch of cosmetics on this handsome, taut body. Feel free to follow its evolution for a decade at least. (Imagine what the 2007 might be like!) (DS)
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