The strong soil signature that is prevalent in so many of the 1998s made this wine really stunning early on, as one was able to revel in the supple beauty of the youthful fruit and still get a very serious dollop of terroir at the same time- a dangerous combination if one has aspirations of allowing this wine to evolve with bottle age! Fortunately, one of my favorite restaurants in all of Burgundy, La Cabotte in Nuits St. Georges, had a goodly supply of half bottles of the ’98 Combottes in their cellar, so I have been able to drink this wine with some frequency over the last few years while dining at this excellent restaurant. The most recent note hails from a half consumed at La Cabotte a year or so ago, and accurately reflects the style of the full bottle we had at the domaine as well during our vertical tasting. The 1998 Combottes is developing beautifully and is a poised and classic example of the vintage. The bouquet offers up a complex and blossoming mélange of sappy plums, cherries, milk chocolate, complex soil tones, violets and a deft framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very refined on the palate, with lovely focus and grip, modest tannins and a very long, tangy and quite classic finish. Just a beautiful bottle of Combottes that is just about ready for primetime drinking. (Drink between 2010-2030) 92+ points
Saturated medium red. Aromas of cherry, milk chocolate and spicy, smoky oak. Juicy, subtle and firmly built; not especially fleshy but quite classy. Firmly structured. Finishes long and subtle, with fine tannins. This has turned out very well. (ST)
Pale to mid ruby with some rust notes. Very earthy, complex and satisfying. Not desperately intense but beautifully balanced. Very appetising. No 1998 awkwardness. Fresh and lively with great delicacy - not the richest Gevrey but lovely Burgundy tightrope stuff. Bravo! Great length. 18/20 points. Drink 2012-2020. (JR)
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