The 2016 Santorini is an unoaked Assyrtiko from vines ranging 40 to 80 years of age. It comes in at 13.5% alcohol. Rather rich for the regular Assyrtiko and caressing in texture as it warms, this is beautifully done. Starting with that hint of richness followed by bite on the finish, it becomes better balanced and more transparent as it airs. Subtle but still intense, this is one of the better regular Santorinis I've seen from Hatzidakis. It doesn't have the concentration of some upper-level bottlings, including his, but it touches all the bases nicely, most with authority. One of the big names on the island, Hatzidakis' quality has steadily risen. The wines tend to be on the bigger side, but they are doing a fine job now of holding their balance, too. (MS)
Very racy and correct. Slaty texture. Lifted and lighter than the Aïdani. Refined and very long. Doesn’t taste like a 14.2% wine. Drink 2017-2022. (JR)
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