Fevre’s 2008 Chablis Vaulorent – which, following my argumentative recommendation mentioned in issue 186, has been labeled without the name “Fourchaume” – lives up to the estate’s long-standing characterization of this site as their “eighth grand cru.” Blueberry and raspberry distillate as well as fresh lime, grapefruit and crushed stone both intrigue and invigorate on the nose, impressions reinforced on a palate that combines real richness of texture as well as succulence of fruit with bright acidity, citrus rind pungency, berry skin tartness, and a depth of marine mineral nuances. Vibrantly interactive and faintly sizzling in finish, this practically takes your breath away, and should continue dazzling for a decade or more. And given that this isn’t priced as a grand cru, it represents a remarkable Chablis buying opportunity. Perhaps in the final analysis most of the “genuine” Fevre grand crus have further to traverse in their evolution than this Vaulorent and will eventually overtake it in complexity, length, and energy? Perhaps. (DS)
As I noted in my original review (see herein), this is one of those wines where you can sense the sheer depth of material simply based on the nose as the very dense citrus-based fruit displays additional hints of stone, tidal pool, algae, oyster shell and white flower aromas. There is excellent energy and punch to the concentrated, serious and beautifully rich flavors that are actually quite fine before culminating in an explosively long, bone dry and palate staining finish that is still quite linear. This is a terrific wine that is very much still on its way up and just as importantly, could easily pass for a grand cru. A stunner of a wine.
Pale greenish-yellow. High-toned aromas of white peach, curry powder and crushed stone. Rather reduced in the mouth, but with noteworthy clarity to its stone fruit, pepper and spice flavors. This smooth and fine-grained wine reminded me of a dry riesling from Alsace Superb acids carry the fruit through a long finish, which features a lingering pineapple perfume. As I mentioned last year, winemaker Seguier refers to this distinctly different section of Fourchaume as the eighth grand cru of Chablis. (ST)
Rich and soft, the yellow fruit character of this wine shines through the acidity. It has a broad texture, although never losing sight of that crispness. (RV)
There's a little oak influence to this white, but it melds well with the clean lemon, floral and mineral flavors. Steely and firm, finishing like spring water running over stones. Best from 2012 through 2021. (BS)
50% aged in oak. Bright and zesty and strongly mineral. Intense but still very directed across the palate. Almost sour on the finish but in a good way. Long and pure. (JH) 17/20 points
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