The 2015 Clos Vougeot le Grand Maupertui has a distinctly more floral bouquet than many others than I tasted from barrel, iris and crushed violet petals infusing the black cherry and blueberry fruit. I admire the precision and terroir expression here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, ripe, red and black fruit, a hint of mulberry and white pepper developing in the glass. It has a grainy texture, firm structure and natural balance and poise on the sustained finish. Persistent in the mouth, this is an excellent Clos Vougeot from Anne Gros. The Rue du Commune in Vosne-Romanée is home to many well-known winemakers: the Mugnerets, Lamarche’s and not one but two members of the Gros dynasty, cousins Michel and Anne. Anne Gros’ winery is always spotlessly clean and this year I tasted with Anne and her oldest daughter of three children, whose images are enshrined in the glass stained window in the barrel cellar stairwell. “The wines have opened recently,” she told me as we tasted directly from stainless steel vats. “We picked from 7 September and finished around 5-6 days later for the red, waiting one more week for the Haut Côtes Blanc. We used one-third new oak across the range, usually Damy, which is traditionally used for white wines, but here we use it for the reds. We have also begun using a little Berthomeau, whilst the whites are matured in François Frère demi-muids.” (NM)
Bright, dark red. Aromas of black cherry and raspberry along with cooler notes of herbs, mint and flowers. Enters the mouth with plush, sweet dark berry fruit, but an impression of gingery lift and a firm spine of racy acidity energize the middle palate. Ultimately quite backward and imploded, even if the wine's serious tannins are fine-grained and noble. This very long Closu Vougeot finishes with a strong impression of medicinal reserve. (ST)
The wood treatment is more subtle though by no means invisible on the earthy and softly spicy aromas of cassis, plum and forest floor nuances. There is even better volume on the succulent yet firm big-bodied flavors that culminate in a powerful and long if moderately rustic and noticeable warm finale. In contrast to the prior wines this will need at least a few years of bottle age first as the structure is definitely more prominent.
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