There is an aura of sweetness – in aroma as well as on the palate – to the Knoll 2012 Riesling Smaragd Vinothekfullung that sets it apart from other Rieslings in this collection. Ripe peach and kumquat incorporate the piquancy of their pit and rind, then join brown spices on a glossy, oily, slippery-rich palate before finishing with bittersweet persistence augmented and tempered by saliva-liberating, prolonging salinity. “The basis for this,” explains Knoll Sr., “is a parcel high-up in the Loibenberg which we usually pick for Federspiel or even Steinfeder. But while other Riesling parcels didn’t gain much after a certain point, this one ended up with the highest must weight of all. Mind you, it was picked rather late and with a bit of botrytis.” (DS)
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