Hints of wood toast and petrol still allow the elegant and admirably pure aromas of citrus, spice, acacia, lavender and ripe white orchard fruit to freely shine. There is excellent richness to the full-bodied and equally ripe big-bodied and imposingly powerful flavors that possess plenty of dry extract plus obvious muscularity while delivering huge length where the citrus character expressed by the nose resurfaces. This borderline chewy and tannic effort is very much built-to-age and is clearly going to need plenty of it.
Bright, light yellow. Discreet nose offers scents of flowers and iodiney minerality; not at all exotic for Montrachet from a warm, sunny year. Then superripe and rich on the palate, conveying an almost oily concentration to its flavors of ripe apricot and mandarin orange enlivened by brisk citrus notes. With two grams per liter residual sugar, this wonderfully smooth, seamless wine comes across as deceptively easygoing. There's nothing austere about this beauty, which finishes with slowly mounting length.(ST)
The 2015 Montrachet Grand Cru, which comes from purchased fruit from the Chassagne side, was taken from barrel since it underwent a very slow malolactic fermentation according to winemaker Benîot Riffault. To be honest, it has a hard time following the Chevalier Montrachet, not nearly as expressive and without the mineralité shown by the vines located further up in the incline. The palate is actually more expressive with very fine tension, quite intense with palpable salinity, with a sense of energy. There is genuine weight and presence on the finish here and the aftertaste is very long, yet the action seems to reside with the Chevalier-Montrachet this season.(NM)
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