This is also wonderfully fresh and bright with cool aromas of essence of red cherry, floral and spice. The vibrant medium weight flavors possess a clean and focused palate impression while delivering fine length on the cherry pit-inflected finish. This mineral-suffused effort is very Chambolle in character and should be approachable young.
(from 11 parcels of vines, the youngest 30 years of age; the yield here was much lower than for the Nuits-Saint-Georges owing to a lot of millerandage, noted van Canneyt): Bright, dark red. Lovely lift and ripeness to the aromas of raspberry and smoky minerality. At once creamy and juicy, with intense purple fruit flavors complicated by saline minerality. Finishes with an impression of medicinal reserve. This structured, serious village wine is built to age.
The 2015 Chambolle Musigny Village, which I tasted from a two-year-old barrel and will be matured in 30% new oak overall, has a ripe blackberry and boysenberry-scented bouquet, a little opaque at the moment yet nicely defined. The palate is chewy on the entry with quite thickset tannin, a muscular village cru with good density, though personally I discerned a little more tension from the Hautes Côtes de Nuits Rouge. I would like to see more Pinoté develop by the time of bottling. Readers should refer to issue 210 for a brief summary of this Chambolle-Musigny grower now managed by Dominique Leguen (and his dog). “Flowering was quick, within 4 or 5 days,” he told me, trying to beat Bruno Clair as the fastest-speaking Frenchman. “I found that it was the differences in rainfall [per location] that determined the maturity of the berries. I started picking on 10 September. Everything is de-stemmed and I found a low juice to skin ratio, with alcoholic degrees around 13.5 or 13.6. I’ll rack the wines in February and then bottle in March.” Dominique’s 2015s were concentrated and intense, certainly leaning more towards black fruit than red. Occasionally I wondered whether some of these wines would have expressed more red fruit character, more “Pinoté” had they been picked a little earlier. They certainly have very good substance and as such, will require 4-5 years cellaring. The Bonnes-Mares and Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras are both superb, although do not overlook a potentially top
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