This historic 5.63 acres of white grapes provided monks with their white wine at the Clos de Vougeot. The Boisset family has farmed the site under biodynamics since 2001, mainly chardonnay (95 percent), with a little pinot gris and blanc in the mix. That farming as well as the quality of the terroir both play a role in the performance of this wine at such a high level through two significantly different vintages, in 2013 and 2012 (below). The 2013 emphasizes kinetic energy, a fragrant chardonnay that washes over the palate like a river of stones. The depth and density of flavor is more about pale earthiness than fruit, the texture broad and lush, the firm finish hinting at spice. Sophisticated and elegant, this will gain from five years or more in the cellar.
The 2013 Clos Blanc de Vougeot has mintiness on the nose that is very attractive. The palate is well balanced and quite exotic in style with mint, juniper and orange-zest notes and an energetic, racy finish that lingers in the mouth. Excellent. (NM)
Here the nose is aromatically similar to that of the Clos du Prieuré except with slightly better layering and depth. I very much like the mouth feel of the rich, generous and fleshy medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a sappy and lingering finish where a touch of wood surfaces. Drink: 2017+
Good medium red. Musky, slightly rustic nose shows more red than black fruits, with complicating notes of underbrush, herbs and pepper. Very rich, tactile, dry and backward, showing more minerality and medicinal reserve than primary berry or cherry fruit in the early going. Tough going today in spite of its depth of texture and richness. Not at all a sweet style. Vincent told me he prefers the easier sweetness of the 2014, noting that, in general, he regards the 2010 vintage as the best compromise between sweetness and energy since he took over winemaking here in 2006. 91+ points. (ST)
Lime and lime blossom aromas lead off, with apple, lemon and spice notes underneath. Though on the slim, linear side, this is balanced and ends with a chalky feel. (BS)
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