The 2005 Volnay Clos des Chenes (100 cases) from 40- to 50-year-old plantings, offers a pungent, high-toned aroma of fresh cherry, blueberry and ginger, comes onto the palate with exuberantly fresh ripe fruit but revealing marrow and chalk aplenty in its bones, and finishes with a flourish of sweet primary fruit and abundant spice. There is to be sure some youthful stiffness , but I would love to revisit this wine after 5-7 years in the cellar. (DS)
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