Arnaud Mortet told me that he has reduced the new oak on the 2015 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Brun to 30% from the 80% he used to use, since the soil here is warmer and does not suit such a high level. This cru is 100% de-stemmed. There is a sense of transparency on the nose: bright blueberry and raspberry fruit, violets and just a hint of iodine. The palate is very well balanced with super-fine tannin, a more feminine Chambolle-Musigny with a satin-like finish. Beautiful. It is not a question of whether Arnaud Mortet's 2015 Burgundies kicked arse...but how much. I was totally blown away by these wines that represent the best ever from the domaine. It is not so much a case of a stellar 100-pointers. Perhaps I was anticipating a score in that rarefied air as I approached the grand crus, and they were not quite there. Rather, it is the consistency amongst the village and premier crus that punched well above their wait, forcing me to give scores that might raise a few eyebrows amongst those in the misguided belief that all Burgundy wines adhere to the hierarchy: generic < village < premier < grand cru. These were thrilling wines that sent tingles of pleasure down my spine. (NM)
A fresh and layered nose combines notes of red and dark currant, spice and newly turned earth. The rich and generously proportioned medium weight flavors possess fine mid-palate concentration while delivering very fine length on the balanced finish. This is certainly good but it lacks the superior complexity displayed by the best of these 1ers.
(from vines picked on September 4; Mortet has aged his Chambolle in 20% new oak since 2013 as he feels that a higher percentage would produce a more syrupy, if not cooked, style): Bright ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of black raspberry, dark chocolate and smoky minerality. Broad, fat and full, conveying a chocolatey ripeness to its slightly roasted dark fruit flavors. Could use more definition but this wine will offer considerable early appeal.(ST)
Robust nose of black fruits, reticent now. Very rich and dense, a touch thick for Chambolle. It is muscular, quite oaky, and not yet harmonious, with a long, chewy finish. Needs time. Drinking Window 2019 - 2030.(SB)
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