Light, fresh and joyful. Brimming with fruit and properly dry at the finish. Drink now or in 2018 and 2019.
The 2016 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Auslese * (AP 22 17) offers a deep, pure, cool and smoky bouquet of ripe and concentrated Riesling fruits along with crunchy slate plates. Silky, round and lush on the palate, with very fine tannins and lingering salinity, this is a gorgeously fine and salty Riesling with structure, finesse and tensioned length. Extremely stimulating and fine, with weathering slate on the palate. Pure and salty, just gorgeous.
The citrus colored 2016 Zeltinger Riesling Kabinett Trocken (AP 32 17) shows a flinty, spicy nose with a light reduction and good Riesling fruit. Lush and round, this is a nicely textured and firmly structured Kabinett bottled with 12% alcohol. The finish is slightly astringent, though.(SR)
Sourced primarily from the Zeltinger Himmelreich, this estate generic delivers a snappy and refreshing meld of apple and lime firmly underlain with stone. Piquantly nutty, and with intriguing and mouthwatering notes of iodine and mineral salts on the finish, this goes well beyond what one would expect from an inexpensive liter bottling. Slightly more than 12% alcohol reflects a bit of chaptalization and encourages an impression of midpalate stuffing, but there is still some sense of buoyancy. Each time I returned to this ostensibly lowly liter after tasting the collection’s impressive single-vineyard dry Rieslings, its virtues remained undimmed.(DS)
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