The 1999 Valtellina Superiore Grumello Riserva Buon Consiglio emerges from the glass with dried cherries, licorice, fennel, dried herbs and crushed rose petals. The aromas and flavors are fairly advanced, yet the wine retains considerable sweetness, not to mention tons of minerality. The Buon Consiglio is all about textural finesse. It is already somewhat evolved and even a touch fragile at times. Ideally it is best enjoyed over the next few years. (AG)
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