Randy Dunn’s 1988 Napa bottling of Cabernet is starting to drink very well indeed and is impressively complex and soil-driven in personality. The deep and very pure nose wafts from the glass in a blend of cassis, black cherries, dried eucalyptus, lovely minerality and a topnote of cigar smoke. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very complex, with a fine core, superb focus and grip and outstanding length and grip on the long and classy finish. There is still a bit of backend tannin here, but the wine is now entering its plateau of peak maturity, where it should delight for the next three decades. A superb wine from a rather difficult vintage.
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